Monthly Archives: July 2008

Former Jordanian Prime Minister Abdelsalam al-Majali randomly decided to stop by today and talked to our group for about an hour and a half.  It has hands down been the highlight of the seminar thus far.  Unlike the Israeli ambassador, he was lucid, to the point, and refreshingly blunt.  While it was hard not to notice the obvious Arab bias, he was still empathetic to all sides involved in the various conflicts.

Perhaps the most insightful part of the presentation, which included the importance of his role in the Israeli/Jordanian peace treaty from the 90s, was when he spoke of superpowers.

“No superpower can remain influential if it is not loved,” he said, sharing the age-old Machiavellian belief.  “If it is not respected, it does not have power.  Love and respect are far more important than the number of bombs in its arsenal.”  He went onto say that respect must be reciprocated.  The majority of the world’s people just want respect and dignity.

In his opinion, it is remarkably difficult to go from the most loved nation to the most hated nation in the world over the course of eight years, which he believes is the inauspicious story of America under the current administration.  I will keep my own opinion on this to myself, but it’s interesting to hear how a leader of the Middle East portrayed us.

http://www.metimes.com/International/2008/07/25/arabs_see_obama_aligning_with_bush-mccain_positions/3990/

http://www.metimes.com/Opinion/2008/07/25/us_urges_iran_to_accept_nuclear_deal/2345/

Yes, as the title suggests, I proved to the those of little faith that I have in my power the ability to woo an Arabic man.  How do I have this power?  How did the situation even present itself to me?  Well, to be blunt, I didn’t see a couple of men walking down the street hand in hand and feel threatened and choose to measure the capabilities of my… of my… of my abilities to pick up men, and no, my sexual affiliations have not suddenly changed for the gayer. 

Essentially, my journey into the life of homosexual Jordanians comes down to my endless journey of finding a free internet connection.  This lovely perk to life that many of us take for granted in the states is not so easily attained in Amman.  So I carry my laptop with me wherever I go, and when possible – over coffee, beers, or diatribes about discovering our inner empowerment – I bust that laptop out and take a journey into the lovely world of connections and of information, and yes, I’ll say it, of globalization. 

Well, now that this meeting has started and several Monterey Institute kids are gracing me with their presence, we have actually started exploring the underground of the city.  Unbeknownst to me, there is a whole scene of drinkers who not only dress scandalously, but seem to leave the house Hijab in place only to overtly remove it along with the majority of their wardrobe upon arrival to said bar.  Now, while sucking down a beer and wondering how it look to order a shot of the cheapest rum in the place, I was simultaneously admiring all of these females who have evaded me for a month while thinking about how nice it would be to send a few emails (two things: yes, sending emails and women are of equal importance to me and yes, I had to include the fact I was looking at girls while writing about this particular topic).

As I set the empty beer glass down, a light bulb went off.

Perhaps I could see if the bar I was sitting in had internet access.  And suddenly I understand why communication is so important.

“Another round for the table,” I said to the waiter, who, for all intents and purposes, had slicked back hair, a jolly beer gut, and had spent the night glaring at the girls sitting next to me.  “Also, is there internet access here?”

The blank look I got is not describable.

“Um, like, a computer?”

“E-mail,” my friend said, trying to help.

“Oh,” said Mr. Slicked Back Hair, “e-mail?”

I nodded my head to indicate yes, that is what I’m referring to, not knowing of course that the infamous Lettis head nod had inadvertently come into effect.

While still looking slightly confused, he walked off.  To check?  To bring a password?  To see if the house computer was available?

Five very long and tense minutes later, he returned and very sheepishly handed me a business card and said, “No e-mail,” staying put for a few seconds to make sure I understood.  I did not.  But, when a situation gets awkward and not worth your time, what do you do?  You smile, you nod, and you turn the clock back five minutes to try and forget about your failure of communicating.  Mr. Slicked Back Hair walked off, not really to return.  I took a sip of my new beer he had also put in front of me and took another look at the card.  Hand written was a phone number and a name.

Interesting, I thought, what the hell does that have to do with an email.  And then it hit me, he didn’t think I was trying to use the internet, he thought I was asking for his e-mail address! 

Admittedly, I haven’t called him yet.  But you know, I usually wait six days anyway…

As much as I hate to again speak of the Israeli ambassador, we unfortunately opened today’s session with a discussion of the previous day’s speakers, and wow, I think people shared my sentiments of the ambassador.  Here is a man who had a chance to (and was supposed to) lay out the Israeli positions and explain why those positions were held.  The idea was not to upset the audience, but to explain the conflict from the Israeli point of view.  His main point in the speech was to point out that most people are too ignorant of the situation, a valid point that I agree with one hundred percent (and I include myself in that assessment).  Ironically, the way he presented himself as a cocky ambassador who has nothing to lose, surrounded by showy security, giving no concrete statements and dismissing extremely important questions and topics, combined with the fact he is the longest serving foreign ambassador in Israeli history only served to create a portrait of Israelis that actually made the audience more ignorant of the situation.  I personally know several Israelis who are nothing like him, extremely down to earth, and genuinely nice people who would like a peaceful resolution to the problem above any other concern.  In an example of the ambassador, it’d be like Donald Rumsfeld giving a speech to Palestinians about American security concerns and then trying to make the Palestinians understand not all Americans except that line of thinking.  Good luck.

Interestingly, the speaker before who was supposed to explain the Arab view I found to be an excellent speaker.  However, while many of us did in fact believe he was speaking with an Arab bias, the Palestinians in our class didn’t think he went nearly far enough.  By saying Hamas is legitimate and saying he understands Israel’s concern about security, he in no way portrayed the true fervor of the Palestinian people. 

Perhaps the most interesting scenario of the entire day is the reaction of an Egyptian in the seminar to the security measures taken by the ambassador’s guards.  Since we were checked at the door to get in the building and since we were in a neutral country, the Egyptian man thought there was no need for additional security checks in the room.  In fact he was so personally offended by the security, he left the conference and refused to listen to the man speak.  Let me just say – knowing full well I can never understand how an Arab feels about security in the Middle East – I would expect nothing less than full security precautions to be taken for a representative of a state regardless of the building or the country.  I think he took it as a personal strike to the Arabs in the room, and perhaps it was, but why would an ambassador, especially one from a state as controversial as Israel, ever relax his security measures.  I certainly wouldn’t, and if it offends someone, well, I’d rather be alive.  But, I suppose there are some things I simply cannot understand.

I shall again end this post with an amazing comment, this being from the Israeli ambassador to Jordan speaking about the wall Israel built separating the West Bank from Israel.

Israeli ambassador to Jordan: “I know it has cost Israel a lot, but when the time is right, just like the Berlin Wall, it’ll be easy to bulldoze.  I mean, the wall isn’t ideal for Israelis either.  Some Israelis used to have great views from their houses, and now all they have to look at is a concrete wall.”

While I do appreciate being helped when I do in fact need help – let’s be honest, not that often – Jordanians, and I suppose Middle Easterners in general have very bizarre tendencies.  For example, I asked a man where an internet café was located, and when he didn’t know, he stopped about seven different people to work up a little brainstorming session to figure out my predicament.  Of course, while this brainstorm sesh’ was taking place, the man, a security guard, was forced if not compelled to neglect his duties.  And by neglect, I mean, he essentially closed down the gate he was supposedly guarding.  So while we were breaking down communications borders, a massive group of people formed behind us trying to get in the gate, but he wouldn’t let anyone in.  I finally was so embarrassed and felt so bad that I essentially closed down the road, I had to say thanks and just walk away.

Here, though, is the catch.  No one got mad at being stopped.  And I don’t mean the people we were asking, I mean the people who wanted to enter the facility and couldn’t.  They just stood there and waited, seemingly knowing what was going on and understanding that it took priority over their own expediency.  I was just thinking, if it was America, someone would probably just realize this person isn’t going away, give some bullshit directions leading to nowhere, and watch as this man’s fate is left to luck.

In other developments, I started the Global Majority conference.  Today we listened to two speakers outline what they described as the Israeli/Palestinian conflict.  Basically, what I took from it, was that scholars are smart and politicians are either on crack or just hear questions as they want to hear them.  I am fairly confident that if someone wanted me to describe what people mean when the say politicians don’t give straight answers and are full of crap, I could have videotaped the two men speak and say if you can’t figure out what I mean, you’re an idiot.

The first speaker, a Jordanian who is a researcher at the Center for Strategic Studies, was excellent.  He laid out the issues, and answered questions.  The speaker, the Israeli ambassador to Jordan, had some good points, but when someone asked about America’s role in the mediation, he went off on a tangent about Norwegian fish.  I think the trick is to speak in an accent that is so thick that no one really understands you just basically didn’t say a single thing.  Both speakers managed to piss off all of the Palestinians in our class.

I shall end this post with an amazing quote from one of the highly intelligent people in our class and follow it up with a brief dialogue.

Amazingly intelligent girl (whilst lecturing the scholar from Cen. for Strat. Stud.): “You know, Hamas does a lot more than just being terrorists.  I think if we gave them a chance, they would be an excellent government.”

Joker: “I was in the bath one day when I realized why I was destined for greatness.”

Vicky Vale: “What do you want?”

Joker: “My face on a one dollar bill.”

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/21/business/worldbusiness/21arabfood.html?_r=1&hp&oref=slogin

http://www.drudgereport.com/flashnym.htm

A couple of very interesting developments have taken place in the past day or so with regards to the Middle East.  I’m sure most of you know this by now, but the Bush Administration has more or less done an about face on all of its horribly misguided foreign policies.  First, and in my opinion most importantly, Washington is sending a high level diplomat to sit and actually talk with Iranian negotiators.  This will be the first such meeting since before the Iranian Revolution in 1979.  I can’t even explain how big this is.  Even if nothing comes of it that is noticeably productive, what such a meeting means is that America is willing to take the diplomatic route.  This step will quell fears of an impending war, help settle the oil markets, and if diplomacy does not work, will help create a unified front with our European allies against Iran in the case of future violent conflict.

President Bush has also signaled that he is willing to accept Iraqi Prime Minister Maliki’s wish of having a timeline in any new agreement for the future of US troops in Iraq.  Bush wouldn’t completely do away with his stance that arbitrary timelines threaten the security of the country, but he has relaxed his policy and will commit to a general timeline for troop withdrawals.  The very fact he is showing the world troop will eventually leave should have the same effects as diplomacy with Iran.  Both will create enormous benefits for the world’s view on America, which, at the moment, is not a very kind view.

I think these two steps, along with the November elections, will help reestablish America as the world leader that it truly is.  However, I’m very interested why the Bush Administration has suddenly been more willing to accept the “weaker” approach to foreign policy.  Of course, Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice just gave a speech saying she has always had an open door for diplomacy (I almost think someone should tape her speeches and play them back for her so she knows what she is really saying), but regardless of her confusion, these new policies are excellent.  Let’s hope President Bush builds on these developments and finally realizes that diplomacy is something to be proud of and is something to build policy around.  In my view, this is a great day for America.

http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/us/AP-US-Iraq.html?_r=1&hp&oref=slogin

http://www.economist.com/world/africa/displaystory.cfm?story_id=11751318

http://www.metimes.com/Opinion/2008/07/18/shebaa_farms_can_create_momentum_for_peace/7864/

I recently read that the term Boogeyman is derived from the time when the Bugi Pirates terrorized a certain area of the world.  Essentially, people were so scared of them that parents would tell their children to behave or they would be punished by the Bugi-Men.

In the same vein, in Jordan (and the Middle East in general), Israelis are generally viewed as the modern day Bugi-Men.  Meaning, no matter what happens, they are always to be blamed and always to be feared.  A person shoots someone?  Those damn Israelis.  There’s a water shortage in Jordan?  Stinking Jews.  People crash giant planes into big buildings?  Only the Satanists in Palestine could have done that.

With that said, while I obviously have reservations agreeing with these accusations, I do have my own issue to take up with Israel.  I absolutely, one hundred percent blame the Israelis for my fear of large groups of children.

When I was in Israel, I would be walking around and these groups of kids – usually on class field trips – would sit there and shout obscenities at me.

“Fucking American!  Go home!  Fuck you!”

Besides the fact this was from Jewish Israelis directed at Americans, and besides the fact their teachers were standing right there and kind of smiling, and besides the fact they could have only really learned these things from their parents, I was scarred.  For the rest of my life, large groups of foreign children will always frighten me. 

I bring this up because while I walk around Jordan, large groups of kids just hanging out will watch me walk by either completely intrigued or one shot chocolate Yahoo away from mauling me and leaving me in a dumpster.  A few of them finally just yelled, “Tourist!” at me.  I wasn’t sure if that was an insult, I mean, I am in fact a tourist and don’t go out of my way to hide that fact, but there was a definite feeling of animosity in the tone.

And of course, to add salt to the wound, I just read that one of the things soldiers watch out for while in the Middle East is when they get up to leave a place and someone immediately gets on their cell phone.  The implication of course being that the person is alerting another person to ready an ambush, the Americans are coming.  Now, I am and always will be one of those people that will watch a scary movie and be horribly frightened while alone in the dark (although my comforter has proven extremely efficient at warding off evil spirits).  So naturally, when I read about the cell phone phenomenon, it weighed heavily on me.

I’m sure it has happened the entire time, but I can’t help but notice now that any time I pass these large groups of kids, one of them without fail gets on a cell phone.  So not only are these kids screaming obscenities at me, they are conspiring to kill me.  How am I supposed to walk around with confidence now?  I’m half-expecting the eight-year-old kite flier (who, I’ve noticed, has a different kite every day.  How the hell is that possible?) to hog-tie me, string me up and send me soaring.

I’ll tell ya, those God-damned Israelis.

http://apnews.myway.com/article/20080717/D91VH6B00.html

http://www.metimes.com/International/2008/07/17/roots_of_inter-faith_animosity_run_deep/7089/

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/07/16/AR2008071602796.html?hpid=topnews

I’m sure most of us have by now heard about this controversial New Yorker Magazine cover which features Barack Obama and his wife as Islamist terrorists, complete with a picture of Osama bin Laden and a burning American flag.  I posted an article a couple days ago about the various responses to this cover, most of which are enraged that this prestigious magazine could print something so libelous.  However, one response, the one I agree with, says Obama should not get angry, but embrace it.  I wholeheartedly agree.

The New Yorker has historically printed cartoons of questionable nature in order to light on controversial issues.  In this case, the editors were making fun of everyone who is ignorant enough to actually think Obama is a Muslim, as well as shedding light on the culture of fear that we live in.  Obama had an opportunity to laugh about this and go along with the point the New Yorker was trying to make.  Shockingly enough, a large percentage of Americans still think Obama is a Muslim and was sworn into office on the Quran.  Conservative reporters (ones I’ve heard in the Bay Area, and I’m specifically speaking of ultra-Conservatives, ala Hannity or Ann Coulter) consistently say such things, and of course follow it up by talking about how Obama holds the same delusional views of America that his Catholic pastor holds.

The New Yorker could not have done a better job at pointing a finger at these people who are more interested in smearing a person’s character than focusing on real truths.  Admittedly, before I understood the intent of the cartoon, I was a little taken aback, but when I actually sat down and figured out what was going on, all I could do was laugh, because it is in fact extremely funny.  One of the main smears against Obama is to actually portray him as a crazed Islamist who will be a terrorist in the White House.  How can you listen to that and not laugh?

However, this controversial situation also brings to light something far more ominous that currently exists in America today: this culture of fear.  I think there are serious threats to American security, but the manner in which our government speaks to us leads us to believe we are being led by fear instead of freedom, and this in turn means that in no small terms, the terrorists have accomplished their goals.

I am not a religious person, but I have no problem with a person who is extremely religious and derives their moral behavior from their religion.  However, a person saying they are a Christian does not a moral person make.  I don’t care if our future president is a Christian, a Catholic, a Jew, a Muslim, a Buddhist, or a Scientologist.  What I’m concerned about is the moral character of the person.  I have seen plenty of Christians who are extremely moral, and I have seen plenty of Christians who couldn’t be more wrong in what Jesus Christ tried to express.  The same for Jews.  The same for Muslims (of course, with Islam it’d be Muhammad, and with Jews Moses, etc.).

We pride ourselves on being a society of religious freedom and yet consistently try to govern from a religious standpoint.  In terms of religion, the truth shouldn’t even matter.  Instead of people trying to figure out what religion Obama is, I’d be far more impressed if someone said, “Obama’s a Muslim, that’s cool.”  I’d love to see America actually live up to the moral code that it continually preaches to the rest of the world.  For a change, I’d love to see a culture that embraces all religion instead of fears it.

 

 

 

So I don’t know what language they’re speaking here, but after a very long analysis of the situation (I’m very good at analysis because of my expertise in using SPSS – thank you MIIS and Professor Laurence, you have changed my life…), it has been decided that whatever language they’re speaking here sure as hell is not the same language I learned back home in class.  Every night I go to a local shop.  It’s quaint, quite, very Jordanian in nature.  You know, a place where the locals go to hang out and study or chat.  Granted, it’s a Starbucks, but you get my drift.  Where else am I supposed to use the internet and stay in touch with the important things in America (Ahem, fantasy baseball…).

Anyways, I go so often, I kind of know some of the people who work there.  One of them has kind of taken it upon himself to become a sort of language partner for me, which is nice considering The Jordanian University did not come through on their promise to get me a partner.  So I kind of chat with this guy, Ahmed, in my broken Englarabic and then he’ll laugh when I say something that he understands.  I finally asked him, I said, “Ahmed, why do you laugh at me?”

“You see,” Ahmed said, “Arabic is a very beautiful language.  It’s a very fluid language.  It’s very difficult.”

Ok, let’s break down what Ahmed said to me.

“Arabic is a very beautiful language.”

Interpreted as:

“You Americans always take something beautiful and make it ugly.”

“It’s a very fluid language.”

Interpreted as:

“It’s not rough like English.”

“It’s very difficult.”

Interpreted as:

“Why do you even bother trying, you dumb Jackass.  I’m smarter than you, have already learned English, now can we please have a conversation.”

I didn’t bother to tell, Ahmed (no no no, the h is from the throat, very difficult for Americans), that in America, we usually just slap each people across the face and tell them they’re idiots. 

After I got home from being indirectly demoralized by the kindly spoken Starbucks guy, I laid in bed to sulk, as those of you who know me know I like to do from time to time.  After a few moments, as only this particular situation could have called for, my bed broke and I crashed to the floor. 

I wonder how you say, “Damn it, my bed broke, I hit my head, perhaps I should lay off the falafel for a few days,” in Arabic.

There was some major construction going on outside my apartment for the first week or so that I was here.  It appeared as though a sewer line was being replaced.  The entire road was dug up, all sorts of pipes were exposed, lots of trucks and machines and Jordanian construction workers sitting on the sidewalk smoking while observing all of the trucks, machines, and exposed pipes.  Ironically, they never closed the street – a problem I’ve mentioned before – so cars would weave in and out of piles of rubble and huge caterpillar tractors to make it to the other side.  Sometimes, I would see families sitting in their cars looking at the torn up road.  Their expressions were priceless as they sat and calculated if they could in fact make it across safely.  More often than not, as the man behind the wheel began to inch forward, his wife in the passenger seat would either begin yelling at him or seem to look at the sky as though saying, “I know you have a plan me, Allah, so I will remain silent as my husband drives us into a large hole where there is a broken sewage line.”

The point of the story is that, also previously mentioned, the road was miraculously put back together seemingly overnight (also, perhaps, by the grace of Allah who deemed that the road had swallowed enough cars).  I bring all of this up because I presumed, as I rightfully should be able to, that the road was repaved because the problem was resolved.  However, walking back to my apartment today, I couldn’t ignore the overpowering, conspicuously intoxicating scent of raw sewage drifting up from beneath the street.  You can almost see the train of thought of the construction crews.  They tried one method of repair, it didn’t work, so they sat on the sidewalk and smoked while they contemplated what to do next.  They had a new plan, repeat the first four steps.  After about ten tries, they said, to hell with it, let’s bring in the pavement.  It’s ok, though, the pungent power of poop in the morning really complements the burning piles of trash in all of the vacant lots of Jordan.

Also funny, my roommate’s cell phone fell out of his pocket in a cab.  Now, while the cab drivers are in fact licensed, the umbrella cab company doesn’t work as it does in America.  You can’t just call an operator and expect to have your phone returned.  Finally, after a day of frantic scheming to get this phone back, my roommate’s language partner told him he got a random text message from someone saying he has my roommate’s phone.  So he had our building attendant try to call the cab driver to tell him where we live.  After a few failed attempts to get this guy to drop the phone off, one of our neighbors takes the phone and sends the driver a text message saying the owner of the phone is named Muhammad, is a highly devout Muslim, and would appreciate a fellow brother to do him this favor.  Within ten minutes, my roommate had his phone back.  The power of religion, people.  Never underestimate how frightened a person is of offending God.  We decided not to tell the driver that Muhammad’s real name is James, is a practicing Catholic, and cares more about the phone than offending God.  As the police officer who drove me to jail a few years ago for failing to put on my blinker (more or less) so eloquently put it when I responded to him putting on his blinker when no cars were around, “Eh, it would have been tacky.”  Asshole.

http://www.metimes.com/International/2008/07/14/syrias_chance_for_peace/1492/

http://www.metimes.com/International/2008/07/14/assad_boosted_by_west_reaching_out/5261/

http://www.cnn.com/2008/POLITICS/07/14/obama.cover/index.html

It’s hard not to walk around town and notice all of the men who hold hands or go arm in arm.  The first few times I saw it, I was like, cool, I feel like I’m back in San Francisco.  Men kissing men passionately on the cheeks.  Rubbing up, loving each other.  Hell, some guys here wear bright pink shirts and tight jeans, stroll around with their shoulders conspicuously pushed back, and enough gel in their hair to make a hair stylist blush.

The only thing is, homosexuality is illegal in the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.  So while I caught on quickly, it took me a few days to figure out what the hell was going on.

As it turns out, showing affection to one another in the Middle East is not only not viewed as strange, but is widely accepted as appropriate.  Two men holding hands are not gay, they are dear friends who experience a level of intimacy that most Westerners can’t experience (of course, it could be these Middle Eastern men are in fact gay, but because it is highly illegal and the stigma of homosexuality is so great that it has been beaten into them that it is unacceptable and showing this acceptable form of affection is their only outlet, but that’s speculation…).

I remember my first Arabic professor in the States calling everyone in class Habeebi, which roughly translates into My Dear.  It wasn’t strange for him to call the male students by this very informal greeting.

In a way, while it occasionally catches me off guard to see full-grown men walking down the street holding hands, I find it very cool and endearing that these people can openly express their affection towards one another.  Again, it also represents the harsh restrictions on certain freedoms, but as I often sit in a café wishing I was eating a Polish Sausage at Pac Bell Park in San Francisco, perhaps, like eating McDonalds, seeing the affection just makes me feel at home.